Where I live, we have this ridiculous misapprehension where some say makeup makes you look utterly unattractive by concealing your natural beauty. I know, right? This sounds absolutely gibberish to us makeup literates. What they fail to comprehend is that "right kind of makeup" will magnify the beauty ALLAH has blessed them with.
Incorrect foundation application is a major makeup faux pas. Foundation makes a massive difference in overall makeup. To understand the right technique of achieving a flawless face, you should stay clear of the seven blunders that I am going to discuss below.
Most of us keep our foundation as close as our ATM card. And just like crisp cash, we tend to "spend" too much of it. That's the most common problem women make putting foundation all over their face when that's very rarely needed. When you get the right shade, and you know how and where to use it, you'll find you need very little.
But first which form do you choose? There are sticks, liquids, creams, and powders. If you have normal skin, you're fine with anything. Dry skin is best with a cream or liquid these glide easily over the skin. Oily skin is best with an oil-free liquid but a powder foundation's even better.
I almost always advocate the sheerest coverage possible. I like to see real skin through any foundation. It has life in it freckles and little idiosyncrasies are what make you. Liquid is the sheerest form of foundation. Powder and dual finish powder are less sheer. And cream can be the heaviest, most opaque of all.
Once you choose what to use, you can still control the amount of coverage. With a cream or liquid, use a damp sponge, foundation brush, or my favorite tool for applying foundation fingertips. I typically squirt some from my favorite pump formula onto the back of my hand and dab on from there. This warms it somewhat, and I don't have to deal with a dispenser while I apply.
To build more coverage, apply in thin layers, using a gentle patting motion so you never pull on the skin. You can also go super sheer by blending cream or liquid foundations with a bit of moisturizer. With a pressed powder foundation, you can apply wet or dry with a sponge. Wet, you get more coverage. Dry will be more sheer.
It's also good to think ahead to what makeup you plan to apply over your foundation. Cream products are compatible with cream foundations. Powder colors work best over powder foundations.
So cream blush on top of a dual finish foundation? Bad idea. The powder will "grab" the cream blush and you won't be able to blend it into place. Powder blush on top of a liquid or cream foundation? Also a bad idea unless you brush loose powder over the foundation to create a compatible surface for your powder blush. Similarly, cream eye shadows should go over a cream foundation; powder shadows over powder.
A final word about finish:
If you've used a cream foundation, your face will be dewy. If you want creams to go matte, add a final dusting of loose powder.
What Color Is Best?
Foundation should always match your skin tone. Don't try to fake a porcelain face when you aren't that fair. Likewise, don't try to fake a two week vacation in St. Bart's if you aren't that dark. Anything other than your real color will look like a mask.
When you put foundation on, it should disappear on the skin then you know it's the right shade. Another plus to a perfect match is that you won't have to wear it over your entire face, which is important because (I can't say this enough) most women don't need foundation all over.
Color Tips:-
*Always test foundation shades on your face, not on your hand. Put a bit on. Blend it out. If you no longer see it, it's perfect.
*Don't shy away from shades that look yellowish in their packaging. On your face, they'll look great. Foundations with a yellow tint neutralize pink tones on your face. (This same tip holds true for concealers and powders.) You might think if you have pinkish skin, you need pink in your foundation. Not so. What you're after is a neutral tone, with no pinks or blues.
*If your skin color is between two shades, go with the darker shade. A too-light foundation is more noticeable it will appear to be sitting on the surface of the skin. If you can't get a perfect color match, make sure to blend over the jawline and onto the neck. But with all the choices out there, I doubt you'll have a problem.
*Don't be surprised if you need to switch shades with the seasons. If you go in the sun (with a smart sunscreen, of course) your foundation should change to match your tawnier skin tone. Most women need one shade for winter, another for summer.
Choosing the wrong shade:
Nothing to be embarrassed about, most people make this mistake, even I did. I tell you nobody stays happy in this world. While most white beauties struggle to look more tanned, us medium skinned ladies wish they could be whiter and more western-looking. If you’re someone with that set of mind, chances are you’ll pick a much lighter shade of foundation in an attempt to look fair. DON’T DO THAT! You don’t want to end up looking as if you’re wearing a mask, do you? A wrong shade can make your makeup detectable and unnatural.
Go for a shade that matches your skin tone exactly. While choosing a shade, apply some on your jaw line and blend. If your foundation is visible and you can see a lighter or a darker patch then it’s just not the right shade for you. Pick a shade that blends seamlessly with your skin and nobody can tell if you’re wearing foundation at all.
We have another problem at hand. Unfortunately, we are not blessed with expert sales assistants standing at makeup counters in Pakistan. They will misguide you mostly. Don’t listen to them. Bring a friend/sister along to help in deciding the right color for you. Also, don’t be fooled by the lights around you. Go outside and check yourself in the mirror in natural light. That’s the only way you can be 100% sure of your match.
Selecting the wrong type:
I don’t really understand the desire for picking a full coverage foundation. I get plenty of emails by girls wanting to suggest a full coverage foundation. If you’re not a model or working for TV, you don’t need heavy coverage on your face. Brides require full coverage since like models and celebrities; they have to spend time under lights and look absolutely flawless for that one night of their lives. For a daily use, light to medium coverage is just about enough.
There are other things to consider too.
*Dry/Normal skin type
You need something to hydrate your face. Steer clear of anything that enhances dryness on your face. In your case, a liquid foundation especially made for your skin is the one you should be looking for. For a light and easy coverage, tinted moisturizers or BB creams will do.
*Combination/Oily skin type
You too can wear a liquid foundation but be careful to pick one formulated for your skin that would help prevent excessive oil at bay. Go for a powder foundation – preferably mineral based – if liquid feels heavy.
There are many other types out there too (cream, mousse, mineral). Remember to select a texture that works for your skin.
Picking the wrong undertone:
We Pakistani’s generally have a warm skin tone i.e. either we have peach or golden undertones. A general rule of thumb is to pick a yellow-based foundation. There’s a myth going around among Pakistani girls that wearing a pink based foundation will make you look bright and pink.
That’s not true! Applying a pink based foundation on warm skin may end up looking ashy. Even if you have picked the right shade of foundation but with wrong undertone, it will just look off on you.
You want a pinky glow? Pink based foundation is not your answer. You just need a pink blusher and a highlighter. In case you want an instant radiance, pick a pink-hued corrector/primer to vanish dull, sallow skin.
Applying too much:
In an effort to look impeccable, you can easily over do foundation and end up looking like a “cake face”. This can also clog pores and create skin problems. Use a concealer to hide any imperfections on your face.
Dont just apply blendi:
Whether it’s a cosmetic sponge, your fingers or a kabuki brush, it doesn’t matter what you choose to apply your foundation with. The key is to blend your foundation properly. Not blending properly ends in making a visible demarcation line across the jaw that looks horrible. Start by applying on one side of the face to the other and blending all the way to the neck and hair line. Skipping the neck is a bad idea; you don’t want your face looking different than your neck.
Skipping a primer or a moisturizer:
Always moisturize before wearing foundation. This will help foundation go on smoothly without clinging to the dry parts of your face. There’s a myth that if you have an oily skin, you don’t need to moisturize. That’s incorrect! Even oily skin needs its share of hydration. If you keep on stripping off oil from your skin using those oil-busting products all the time, you may over activate your sebaceous glands (oil producing glands) resulting in even more oil floating on your face.
Primers too help in smooth application. Not just that, it also prevents your foundation from getting oxidized i.e. changing color or turning dull. There are two types of primers in the market; hydrating and mattifying. Get one according to your skin’s need.
Not setting your foundation:
Setting is as important as priming and moisturizing. To lock in your foundation, set it with a translucent powder. It will not just keep your makeup from sliding off your face but also make it look less shiny and natural.
Avoiding the seven foundation errors that I just mentioned will make a world of difference in your makeup application believe me.
Where Does It Go?
Always use foundation over the eyelids, even if you aren't using eye makeup. It cleans up tiny veins and uneven skin tone. Simply blend over the entire lid, and powder to set. Go under the eyes, too, to take minor circles away (really dark circles need concealer, then foundation). This is a great nude eye look on its own, also a great primer before applying eye color.
Another key spot: around the nostrils. Most people have some redness here to cover. Foundation around the eyes and nostrils makes such a difference, many women learn that's all they need. Everywhere else is an option.
I also like to put foundation over the lipline (not over the whole lip), so when I do the lips later, lip pencils glide easily. This gives you a clean line to work with and also hides any unevenness of your lipline.
If you want a full face application, go for it. But the idea is to use foundation to perfect the skin, not hide it.
